Cured Pork: Why Your Food Doesn’t Take Like Mama’s – Part 4

Momofuku Saäm Bar is one my favorite restaurants in New York City.  Despite loud and obnoxious music, no reservations and always crowded conditions, it remains a must for any gourmand who treasures culinary imagination.  Momofuku Saäm is the brain-child of the talented yet irreverent chef, David Chang.

Dining at Momofuku is like attending Hamilton:  The Musical for the first time – you don’t know quite what to expect.    I am always surprised and delighted at Chang’s inventiveness and never leave his restaurant without a smile on my face.

As regular patrons are aware, David’s specialty is pork.  One early evening several years ago, we were sampling a plate of cured when David Chang appeared from the kitchen and asked us to sample a new cured ham that he had discovered.  I distinctly recall that it was a Meacham ham from Kentucky, that we found delicious.

We have since ordered several Meacham hams from their online store, but there are many other wonderful sources for ham like Edwards Virginia Smokehouse that is now back in operation after a fire burnt down their facility in January.

I could talk about cured pork and cured meats for hours, but close friends will often say OINK, OINK if I go on too long.    In this age of commercialization, most cured meats, hams and bacon simply don’t taste nearly as good as meats that have been cured the old-fashion way.

Let’s face it, hogs raised in pens and force-fed with with grain by-products produce large but rather tasteless hams and bacon.  Many are filled with nitrates and other artificial preservatives and coloring agents.

No wonder the bacon and pre-packaged ham cuts for sandwiches  you purchase at the grocery don’t take like Mama’s.  At best, they are simply fillers and – at worst – these processed meats may lead to obesity and other health complications.

The only bacon I cook with is Benton’s bacon.   It is simply the best bacon I have ever tasted and has a favor profile that enriches everything from green beans to chili.  Frankly, I find it a bit too salty to eat for breakfast, but Benton’s bacon is the “real deal” when cooking.  Thanks Allan Benton for contributing your experience.

We don’t eat as much ham or bacon anymore other than bacon for flavoring certain dishes.  Nevertheless, we use imported  San Daniele Prosciutto – cut very thinly – with our melons.

While Jamón Serrano is wonderful as an appetizer when thinly sliced off the hock, it is rarely used in cooking.  As an alternative, we love Surryano ham from Edward’s Smokehouse which is currently unavailable for sale at this time.

So, if you are looking for food that “tastes like Mama’s,”  do make the point of using authentic cured pork produced by artisans.  Factory-processed cured meats simply lack authenticity.

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Grilled Shrimp in a Warm Bean Salad

I am not a big fan of shrimp, particularly the farm-raised variety often referred to as “tiger” shrimp.  Like most artificially-raised products, they seem to lack the taste and texture of the “real” thing (at least for those few of us who still remember what the “real” thing tasted like).

In fact, I often give the fish section of most grocery stores a wide berth since I often pick-up the smell of ammonia, which suggests that the fish may no longer be fresh.  My husband thinks I am a bit paranoid, but I do think your local fish monger is a more reliable source for “fresh” fish.

With respect to shrimp, I firmly believe that wild shrimp – even though they are more expensive – taste like shrimp.  In fact, as the chart below illustrates, there are several other legitimate reasons other than taste on why you should insist on wild caught fish.   I do – and I feel a lot healthier.

In any event, I discovered that wild-caught shrimp paired with beans, particular fresh cranberry beans (not used in this recipe) is a welcome summer treat as the days begin to shorten and the nights grow cooler.  This particular recipe below is from the Greenwich Times from May, 1992.

Warm Bean Salad with Wild-Caught Grilled Shrimp

Ingredients

• 1 to 1 1/2 pounds or 16 large peeled and deveined wild-caught shrimp (fresh)
• 2 large garlic cloves, freshly chopped
• 2 Tbsp of fresh rosemary
• 4 Tbsp extra virgin olive oil  (Gourmet Living Tuscan EVOO, please!)
• Sea salt, to taste  (Gourmet Living’s Mediterranean Sea Salt works wonders)
• Freshly ground black pepper, to taste
• 3 cups cooked and drained Tuscan-style great Northern beans
• 3 large tomatoes, seeded and chopped
• 1 Tbsp fresh lemon juice

Preparation

1. In bowl, combine shrimp, half the garlic, 1 Tbsp rosemary and 2 Tbsp olive oil with salt and pepper.  Stir well.  Cover and and chill one hour.
2. Preheat barbecue grill or broiler.
3. In saucepan, heat remaining oil, garlic and rosemary over medium heat just until fragrant, about one minute.  Stir in cooked beans.  Cover and cook over low heat five minutes or until warm.
4. Remove from heat.  Stir in tomato, lemon juice and salt and pepper to taste.
5. Grill shrimp over hot coals until lightly browned and just opaqued in thickest part, about 5 minutes.
6. Spoon beans on the plates and surround with shrimp.
7. Garnish with additional rosemary and served with salsa.

This is a wonderful warm dinner that gets you ready for the fall.  We normally will eat this at room temperature.

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Paleo Recipes: West African Chicken Stew

For the most part, we are wedded to the Mediterranean diet or lifestyle, but will occasionally venture out and test some new diets.

At the suggestion of my sister-in-law, my husband and I decided to see what the Paleo diet had to offer.  I checked out a few books at the library, but eventually decided on a few cookbooks that I thought provided some interesting recipes.

Before sharing an excellent recipe for West African Chicken Stew from Well Fed 2 by Melissa Joulwan, I would like to make a few observations about the Paleo diet.

The paleo diet is loosely based “on the types of foods presumed to have been eaten by early humans, consisting chiefly of meat, fish, vegetables, and fruit, and excluding dairy or grain products and processed food.”  In effect, it is the food that hunters and gatherers would consume rather than the food farmers who produce from domesticated animals and farmed vegetable gardens, particularly legumes.

As such, it differs considerably from the Mediterranean diet in the sense that you are eliminating one more level of “food processing” from your diet.   Clearly, a reduction in factory-processed and potentially chemically-treated foods is a way to eat more naturally and help restore body health.  In fact, many people have told us that they “feel better” after being weaned from artificially processed foods.  Who am I to argue?

The following recipe for West African Chicken Stew is reprinted from the Healthy Foodie Blog, which has some gorgeous photos on how this dish is assembled.  While the author of the blog substituted chicken breasts, I strongly recommend using chicken thighs because they have far more flavor.  We served this lovely stew with coconut cauliflower rice (also available in Well Fed 2).

WEST AFRICAN CHICKEN STEW – FROM WELL FED 2

INGREDIENTS (Serves 2 to 4)

• 1/2 tablespoon coconut oil
• 1 pound boneless, skinless chicken thighs (I used breasts)
• salt and ground black pepper
• 1/2 medium onion, diced (about 1/2 cup)
• 1-inch piece fresh ginger, grated (about 1 tablespoon)
• 3 cloves garlic, minced (about 1 tablespoon)
• 1/2 tablespoon ground coriander
• 1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper
• 1 bay leaf
• 1 cup canned crushed tomatoes
• 1/4 cup water
• 1/4 cup sunflower seed butter (no sugar added)
• 1/4 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
• garnish: minced fresh parsley leaves, sunflower seeds

INSTRUCTIONS

1. Sprinkle the chicken enthusiastically with salt and pepper. Heat a large soup pot over medium-high heat, about 3 minutes. Add coconut oil and allow it to melt. Add the chicken in a single layer and brown well on both sides, about 10 minutes. (Don’t crowd the pan; cook in batches if you need to.) Remove the chicken to a bowl to catch the juices.
2. In the same pot, cook the onions and ginger until soft, about 5-7 minutes. Add the garlic, coriander, cayenne, and bay leaf, and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add the tomatoes and water, stirring to combine. Nestle the chicken into the sauce, along with any juices it released. Increase the heat to bring the pot to a boil, then reduce to a simmer and cook, covered, for 25 minutes.
3. Remove the chicken from the pot; it will be very tender. Break the chicken into large pieces with the side of a wooden spoon. Add the sunflower seed butter and vanilla to the pot and mix to combine. Return the chicken to the pot and cover. Heat through, about 5 minutes, then serve, sprinkled with parsley and sunflower seeds.

Enjoy.  This recipe is a little spicy but delicious.  Thank you Melissa. We love your cookbook!

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Traditional Balsamic Vinegar: Don’t be Conned!

Traditional balsamic vinegar specifically refers to balsamic vinegar that consists ONLY of wine must that has been barrel-aged for more than 12 years.

Traditional balsamic vinegar is VERY EXPENSIVE and sold ONLY in distinctive 100 ml bottles.     Typically, a 100 ml bottle (a little over 3 oz.) of 12 year old traditional balsamic vinegar sells for roughly $100.

To avoid adulteration, false labeling or contamination, the Italian consortium collects and tests the wine must from authorized producers and then bottles and seals the vinegar with its own distinctive seal.

Using Gourmet Living’s brands to illustrate the difference, found below are certified bottles of Traditional (DOP or PDO) 12 year-old balsamic vinegar and a premium brand of IGP certified balsamic vinegar which consists ONLY of barrel-aged wine must AND aged wine vinegar.

 

Sadly, there are many dishonest vendors who falsely label their product as TRADITIONAL balsamic vinegar or DOP balsamic vinegar when it is not. Again, TRADITIONAL balsamic vinegar is sold only in distinctive 100 ml bottles and costs roughly $100.

To avoid competing against other Vendors who falsely misrepresent their products on Amazon and other retail venues, Gourmet Living only sells Traditional Balsamic Vinegar on its own website. For a limited time only, you may purchase authentic 12-year old traditional balsamic vinegar for only $97.50. It comes with a distinctive decorative box, ceramic spoon and pouring spout as shown below:

This makes a wonderful Christmas gift for for fellow gourmets who appreciate the distinctive taste of traditional balsamic vinegar.

Also, our premium brand of Goccia d’Oro balsamic vinegar, which normally sells for $38.50, can now be purchased on Amazon for only $25.00. This limited time offer is available only through September 30. FREE Shipping for Amazon Prime members.

Knowing the difference when purchasing quality balsamic vinegar can save you much money and helps avoid unpleasant surprises.   Please consult our website for more information on balsamic vinegar.

For more information about our summer balsamic vinegar promotion, CLICK HERE.

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Water: Why your Food Tastes Different than Your Mother’s – Part 3

Scene:  Early 1970s in an apartment on the upper east side in NYC

Anna (our new Italian friend):  “Butta giù la pasta!”   Translation:  The pasta is served.

Claudio (husband to Anna and sniffing the aroma of the pasta):  Anna, did you use bottled water for the pasta?

Anna:   Sorry, but I ran out of time.  Is there a problem?

Claudio:  I can smell the chlorine in the pasta.

This little vignette has stuck in my mind for many years and simply underscores the importance of using the “right” ingredients in your cooking.  Last week, we saw that a tomato is comprised of about 95% water, which suggests to me that your cooking isn’t going to be as good as Mama’s unless you use the same H2O.  

Chances are that your mother or grandmother was using well-water rather than water piped into your house from nearby reservoirs.  While there is no need to go overboard to buy the most expensive bottled water, do consider your H2O options when cooking.

While the quality and source of water makes a huge difference in pasta, it also makes a big difference in beans.

As I indicated earlier, we purchase our dried beans from Rancho Gordo in California which sells heirloom beans.  Like water, if you are not using authentic and natural ingredients, the taste profile of your food is likely to suffer.

 

If you haven’t stocked up on Rancho Gordo beans, do yourself a favor and visit their online store.   For those who need a little inspiration, try this wonderful recipe from David Rosengarten, which is featured on the Rancho Gordo website.  I quote with very minor changes so big thanks to David and the folks at Rancho Gordo.

David Rosengarten’s Red Beans and Rice

“I love the recipe for Red Beans and Rice that appears in my newest cookbook, It’s ALL American Food–developed by me and Susan Bird, my crack Cajun recipe-tester. Just buy some red kidney beans at your supermarket, get some good rice and have yourself a feast! If you wish to add andouille, tasso or chicken to this recipe, to make it meatier still . . . go right ahead!” – David Rosengarten

Ingredients (makes 4 servings)

• 1 pound dried beans, such as Red Nightfall or Sangre de Toro
• 1 large onion, finely chopped
• 1 small green pepper, finely chopped
• 2 celery stalks, finely chopped
• 3 large garlic cloves, finely chopped
• 1 fresh jalapeño, finely chopped
• 1 tablespoon vegetable oil
• 10 1/2-ounce can chicken broth
• 1 cup red wine
• 3 cups of water
• 1 bay leaf
• 1 pound smoked ham hocks
• 1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper
• 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• 
2 cups hot white rice
• Chopped scallions for garnish

Preparation

1. Wash beans well and sort through them, removing any pebbles or impurities. Place beans in a pot, cover with water and soak overnight.
2. When ready to cook, drain beans and set aside.
3. Sauté onion, green pepper, celery, garlic and jalapeño in oil in a large stock pot over medium-high heat, uncovered, until soft (about 10 minutes).
4. Add beans to the pot, along with chicken broth, red wine, water, bay leaf, ham hocks, cayenne pepper and black pepper. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat to a simmer and taste to adjust seasoning. Simmer, covered, for 2 hours, stirring frequently.
5. Remove ham hocks after 2 hours. Continue to simmer beans for another 30 minutes, or until the liquid in the beans has a thick, creamy consistency.
6. As soon as the ham hocks are cool enough to work with, remove all meat from the bones, and shred it. Return meat to the beans.
7. Divide the hot rice among 4 wide, shallow serving bowls. Pour 1 1/2 cups of the bean mixture over the rice in each bowl; you’ll have a little bean mixture left over.
8. Garnish with scallions and serve immediately.

Remember, if you want your food to taste like “home-cooking” you must use natural ingredients.

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August 09, 2016 at 06:14AM

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August 09, 2016 at 06:13AM

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Heirloom Tomatoes: Not as Tasty as Mother’s? Part 2

Foods today are grown and processed differently than when our parents and grandparents prepared food.  Many will argue that foods served today doesn’t taste as good as Grandma’s cooking.  As I reported earlier, many heritage grains and vegetables have lost their taste and now replaced by vague replicas that have been cloned and altered by modern farming techniques.

Nowhere is this more evident than in the production of tomatoes.  When was the last time you had a tomato that actually tasted like a tomato?

Like most people I have been seduced by the marketing ploy by Whole Foods (and others) that “vine ripened tomatoes are fresher and taste better.”

While the logic seems inescapable, I learned that tomatoes are 94% water.  While the green vines are pretty, doesn’t it make sense to consider the origin of the water as the primary “taste” determinant of a tomato?   Imagine all those carefully crafted tomatoes in hothouses receiving hydroponic drips concocted in scientific labs managed by agronomists.

Sure, this process may increase crop yields and produce beautifully colored artificial tomatoes, but they certainly won’t have the taste of the ones my grandmother used in her cooking.

While grocery stores now offer many varieties of tomatoes, I have discovered that most lack taste.  Even tomatoes that are labeled “organic” often fail to meet my taste expectations.

After suffering for years to recapture the true flavor profile of a “real” tomato, I was reacquainted with that sublime flavor while shopping at our local Greenwich Farmer’s Market.

Jennifer, who runs a small 3 acre farm in Newtown, CT is my go-to resource for organically grown tomatoes.   To obtain their organic certification, Jennifer had to compile a list of everything that touched her soil for three years.  Her farm is then inspected yearly.

Needless to say, no artificial ingredients such as pesticides and herbicides were used to contaminate the soil and her tomato plants are grown from seeds and seedlings “stored in and around” her house.  Next year, she plans to move them to a small barn on her property.

In effect, the taste of her tomatoes are largely determined by nature:  the unique chemical combinations of her soil, rain water and well water.   You can taste the difference in tomatoes that are grown and harvested naturally using the best ingredients provided by Mother Nature.

When I arrive at the market, I ask Jennifer to select tomatoes that will ripen at various stages during the week.  Of course, every home cook realizes that you should never refrigerate tomatoes (unless the skin is broken).

I can’t tell you how wonderful these tomatoes taste with Gourmet Living’s extra virgin olive oil from Tuscany.   If you are looking for inspiration, try this wonderful recipe by Dan Kluger for Heirloom Tomatoes with a Herbs Almond Vinaigrette that was featured a little over a week ago on our Blog.

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August 03, 2016 at 06:26PM

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