Grappa, Polenta and Venison in Val di Sole

Verona: Where Civility and Magic Embrace

I must admit that I am a hopeless romantic when it comes to Italy.  It seems that this wonderful country is caught in a time-warp and Sheila and I are among the lucky few to have been able to step through a time portal. This is certainly the case for Verona, Italy.

Mind you, “popular” Italy is overrun with tourists, but if you travel during the right season and seek out destinations somewhat off the beaten track you will be rewarded with a magical experience that is difficult to replicate.

I will writing more about our recent visit to Ossana in the stunning Val di Sole with our good friends Anna and Claudio, but I did want to take the opportunity to comment on Verona, while it is still fresh on my mind.

Verona is a popular visitor destination, but less so in the middle of winter.  Nevertheless, Asian tourists toting selfie sticks have largely replaced Americans beneath Juliet’s balcony.  I can only surmise that the “love-life” of Asians is far more complicated than that of Americans.  Presumably, “gringos” find it easier to tweet their “love” frustrations rather than drop a love note to Juliet.  Of course, maybe self-adulation by those on social media does not require Juliet’s help.  After-all, she was only 14 years when she took her life.

Now, Sheila insists that Romeo and Juliet is fiction.  Personally, I opt for Kellyanne Conway’s “alternative facts” or “artistic license,” as my liberal friends prefer to capture the majesty of love in the medieval ages.  In any event, we are all greatly enriched by Shakespeare’s Romeo and Juliet and the wonderful ballet music of Prokofiev, particularly “The Dance of the Knights.”  As Karl Marx was prone to say, “Politics is theater.”  (actually, it was Harvey Milk).

Walking around the historical district of Verona is like strolling through history as if you were a Medici.  The streets are pretty much deserted after 7:3o p.m., but I would strongly recommend an initial visit to the Arena, which is in Piazza Bra just on the southern outskirts of the historical district.

From there you walk north into the historical district.  Fashionable people (mink coats are optional) will take Via Mazzini, which runs into the eastern end of Piazza delle Erbe.  Piazza delle Erbe is a delightful piazza featuring eclectic architecture, a market and several bistros and restaurants where you can watch people watching other people.   Found below is a short video of Piazza delle Erbe that I found on YouTube.

It is almost impossible to get lost in Verona, since the historical district sticks out like a sore thumb around the meandering Adige River.  If you get tired, simply have an Aperol Spritz, coffee or hot chocolate at one of the many pastry stores and bistros spread out through this magical town.  For those in need of a little religious inspiration, we suggest the lovely Abbadia di Sant’Anastasia.  The locals consider this to be the finest abbey/cathedral in Verona.  Sheila quite agrees.

If you want to explore the magic and wonder of Italy, I can think of few better places to start than Verona.

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